On Saturday 14/11 we had a big dinner with Carlos and some other friends. There was 9 of us and Carlos spent half a day cooking.
What I forgot to mention is that from 12-15 (Thursday to Sunday) we had 4 days of more or less solid rain. We stayed put at the farm and never got round to going scuba diving. Couple of days ago we found out that Victor’s parents make hammocks and with our limited Spanish we asked for a permission to visit his little village and learn how to make them. After several messages Victor Sorted it out and on Wednesday morning we hit the road again.
Destination is Tulum – another cool town on the Caribbean coast. After about 70 km we stopped at a small village called Akumal where you can, if you’re lucky swim (see) with wild sea turtles.I guess I was lucky ’cause the moment I dipped my head under the surface there was a turtle swimming away from me. It was a big one too. When I later told people that I actually saw one, everyone said I’d been very lucky. After that Nadya and I saw several different fish, some of them only about a meter off the shore. Akumal has a beautiful bveach with a lot of palm trees which make it look like a real paradise. But then wherever we go here looks like a paradise for us :)))). We got there at about 4:30 pm and because it gets dark in this part of the world around 6:30-7:00 pm, we were on the lookout for a camping spot. Unfortunately, Ukumal beach area is all privately owned plus it’s a really hip place with a lot of tourists, so camping is sort of frowned upon. We were directed towards Tulum. There was supposed to be a place just 10 km after Akumal but we never saw the place and ended up cycling all the way to Tulum. In the meantime it got really dark and we were really tired. Cycling in the dark is not the smartest thing you can do and we’re gonna try to avoid it, if possible. After an arduous search for a camping place we found one, cooked a quick dinner and went straight to bed. We did 99.7 km that day and it was our first day of riding. Crazy.
The place is called Playa Esperanza and it’s 80$MX per person per night. It’s right on the beach. and you hear the sea all day long. First thing we did in the morning is a jog along the beach followed by a swim. Another paradise :))))
At first we thought we were gonna stay for a day or two and rush up to Victor’s parents’ place but just couldn’t do it and lingered for a whole week. The place has some kind of magic. There have been a lot of people who get stuck there for months. We’ve also met some. Jon from Honduras has been living there for the past 3 months, an Italian Alex for 5 months, and another Italian Eugenio for 4 months. This where we started making our wallets I’d mentioned before to improve our financial situation. On Thursday, we cycled around the town and asked at several different restaurants to keep their empty milk boxes until tomorrow for us to collect. We also make felt earings and two Argentinian artesanos Simon and Cecilia taught us many new things about handcrafts. BIG THANKS. From Thursday to Sunday there’s a crafts market on the main square and we decided to try our luck. We only went on Friday and Saturday but we sold 10 wallets which brought us 300 pesos. Not bad, hmmm? What helps us a lot are our bikes. They attract a lot of attention and once people come to look at them we show them what we do and most of them do buy a wallet or two. I guess some of them do it out of compassion for two weary travellers but whatever their reasons are, it’s good with us.
Couple of days ago, I got a request on Couchsurfing (CS) from Pedro (Costa Rica) to travel together. He’s just returned from a one year trip in the Balkans and former Soviet Union countries. I emailed him back telling him all about our bikes and I suggested to meet up for a drink in Tulum. I never got the chance to read his reply because the next day he turned up at Playa Esperanza as if we’d agreed to meet there. Nadya needs visa to Costa Rica so meeting Pedro was a great thing since we hope he’ll be able to help us with the visa. On the other hand, he’s planning to start learning Russian as soon as he gets back to his home country so by the time we get there, he should be able to practise his Russian with us. Plus, if he ever wants to visit Russia we’ll do the same visa favour for him.