We slept quite well in fact and didn´t wake up until after 7:30. Last night I had another small incident. My speedometer froze and I had to restart it. I lost all the data but luckily I remembered most of them so I manually put them in. After scrambled eggs breakfast we hit the road again. It was a very scenic ride right next to the coast on one side and thick green vegetation on the other. We stopped at a small viallage and I couldn´t resist the temptation to go for a dip in the Mexican Gulf at least once. The water was quite chilly and least compared to the Carribean plus it was very sandy. Nothing like the azure blue waters on the other side of Yucatan peninsula.
As I was changing wet clothes another group of Guadalupanos rode past. There was about 7 of them. We quickly got ready and decided to catch up with them. After several kms we did but they were so painstakingly slow we didn´t even get the chance to talk to them apart from regular HOLA. On thing was really weird though. They were all wearing their “uniform” but it was so hot that day and I could see them all sweating like hardworking dogs. They all had long jogging outfit with a picture of Virgin of Guadalupe. After we overtook them we caught up with 2 other Guadalupanos, from a different group. They were from Panaba and they told us they came all the way here in just two days – it´s about 500 k to Panaba. Well, if that´s true they should try Tour De France. Anyway, they were a bit faster than us but not that much. After a while they left us far behind but even then they´d have to ride for 12 hours a day at the same speed if they were to make it this far in two days.
We entered Sabancuy through a long bridge over the Laguna de Terminos and went straight to waterfront restaurant. We had Pargo, a biggish fried fish. One was more than enough for two of us plus tortillas and rice. As we were sitting there I noticed a cyclist coming towards the town. I don´t even know why but I run out of the restaurant and stopped him. He turned out to be a Mexican cycling across the whole of Mexico in just three months. His name is Jorge “Noala” Guerra. Three months ago he started in Mexicali which is very close to the US border and his destination is Cancun. He´s a musician, a surfer, a cyclist, a traveller simply an adventurous world spirit. His girlfirendis already in Tulum looking for a flat for the two of them. They´re going to stay there for half a year or so to see what the life is like in the south of Mexico. He joined us at the restaurant we´d just had lunch at and we spent almost 2 hours talking about almost everything. Yes, he speaks good English. It was about 3:30 when we decided to leave but before I let Jorge try mu bike. He almost fell. By the time we were ready to leave it was quarter past 4 and there was no point in going anywhere since it gets dark here just after 5. The decision was made to stay and camp on a beach in Santa Rosalia on the other side of the Laguna De Terminos. When we told him about our plans he suggested going into one of the loacal hotelsand asking how much a room for three would be.
Here I have to explain our financial situation. Nadya has a small one bedroom flat near Moscow which we rented out for exactly 15 000 Russian rubles. This is roughly 500 US dollars depending on the conversion rates. Apart from that Nadya had sold her car which brought in about 200 000 rubles. We gave half of it to her parentsand used a little bit of the second half to buy some equipment. The rest of it we want to keep for for the unforsen circumstances and the return flights to Europe. I used to make decent money in Moscow teaching English and I spent most of my savings on the equipment – the bikes, water filter, new tent etc. So here we are left with just 500$ US for a month. If you convert it to pesos it is roughly 6000 pesos. Divided by 30 days in a month we get a sum of 200 pesos per day for two people. This is enough for a night in a very cheap hostel/hotel but no food or any other things. That´s why we can´t afford staying in hotels.
We politely refused Jorge´s proposition even though he said it wouldn´t be more than 100 pesos per person. Few hours back we´d told him that this is sort of a honeymoon for us and now he suggested paying for us as a wedding gift. His situation is slightly different than ours. No, he´s not rich either but because he´s almost at the end of his journey ( only about 700 km to Cancun) he knows exactly how much he´s got left and how much he can spend. We gratefully accepted under one condition that it wouldn´t be more than 300 pesos for all three of us. When we come back home we´ll be the ones helping weary travellers.
Eventually we found a hotel with three beds in a room for 300 pesos. We all had showers and I taught Jorge how to make recycled wallets. We also gave him the felt earings that Nadya makes. After that we went out looking for Don Cruz – el brujo (wizard?)We found his house but the must have been asleep already. Back in the hotel room Jorge and I talked for a while and went to sleep around midnight.